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Odero Lal Temple Complex, Matiari


Odero Lal is more than a temple: it is centuries old sanctuary for Hindus and Muslims. At the time of the destruction of the Babri Masjid in the early 1990, it was the only Hindu temple in the subcontinent to be guarded by Muslim devotees.

A temple adjoining an ancient mosque where Hindus and Muslims worship together, respect each other's rituals and observe silence during each other's prayer times. Odero Lal is indeed a unique religious centre, not only Sindh, Pakistan but perhaps in whole world. According to a famous legend, Odero Lal was a saint who encountered the wrath of a despotic ruler named Markh in the village of Nasarpur. Unjustly removed from his village, he travelled on a fish through the river. When he reached the present site, he established his "Astana" and the entire area was named after him. His teachings attracted an equal number of Hindus and Muslims.

The date of his birth and death remain a mystery, A Hindu retainer of the dargah, describing the spiritual power carried by Odero Lal points out an event and said that one day he shot an arrow against the earth with such force that the ground opened up and water came tearing up to the surface. This was later converted into a well, which still exist, outside the premises of the shrine and is holy site for the Hindu pilgrims. Hindus call it Lal Sain's river and Muslim followers, on the first of Zul Haj, inaugurate a three-dav Urs of Lal Sain near the water. As it ends, the Hindus carry out their own celebrations.

The shrine of Odero Lal has dual identities with dual role by the custodians, who remain present in the premises of the shrine whole the day, attending and guiding the local as well the international pilgrims. For Hindus, he is Odero Lal, while the Muslims believe him is Hazrat Shaikh Muhammad Tahir.

The grave of Hazrat Shaikh Muhammad Tahir, which remains opened whole the day and both Hindu and Muslim devotees regularly pay visit to it. Just opposite to it the monument of Odero Lal which is visited & represented by Hindu devotes. As a part of ritual, Hindu shewadaris used to beat 'Naghara' (lying in the premises of the shrine) for two times: dawn and dusk.

Besides a Hindu Shewadari, who represents Hindu followers lives son of late Ismaeel Shaikh, the Muslim representative. They both live in separate houses. At the annual Urs which is also attended by Hindus from all over the region, the pilgrims bring gifts for the shewadari, seeking his blessings. The temple beside the mosque is surrounded by a towering wall and decorated with a portrait of Lal Sain. There hang his wooden chappals and a set of clothing that is regularly cleaned by the Hindu "Shewadaris". The dargah premises is spread over few acres. It has a big courtyard, which is surrounded by 'Tajar' shaped waiting halls for the pilgrims. It has three gates. There is an old well in the premises of the courtyard, which is used by the Hindu pilgrims for throwing meals & other eating material.

The architecture of Odero Lal is identical to the design of the mosque at Thatta built by Mughal Emperor Shahjahan. It is said that the temple was reshaped by Emperor Shahjahan because he was impressed by the teachings of Lal Sain. Today Odero Lal is a self- sufficient entity with 18 acres of agricultural land that bring in enough revenue to sustain itself financially. Also from the land comes the fodder to feed the cows kept by the Hindus. A microcosm it is of the perfect subcontinent, a model we can be proud of. Ironically, this towering monument has not yet been identified or acknowledged by any government agency meant for protecting the historical sites. Due to this, the monument of Odero Lal had to suffer a lot in the wake of periodical substandard repair works.

[Source: Matiari The Cultural Capital of Sindh by Momin Bullo | Coordinates: EFT]

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